Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Grape-Treading Grapes in Urban Spaces
Every quarter of an hour or so, an older diesel-powered train arrives at a graffiti-covered station. Close by, a police siren cuts through the almost continuous road noise. Commuters hurry past collapsing, ivy-draped fencing panels as storm clouds gather.
It is perhaps the last place you anticipate to find a well-established vineyard. However James Bayliss-Smith has managed to four dozen established plants heavy with round mauve grapes on a rambling allotment sandwiched between a line of historic homes and a local rail line just above Bristol town centre.
"I've noticed people concealing heroin or other items in those bushes," states the grower. "Yet you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your vines."
Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a documentary cameraman who runs a kombucha drinks business, is among several local vintner. He's organized a informal group of growers who make wine from several hidden city grape gardens tucked away in back gardens and community plots across the city. It is too clandestine to possess an official name so far, but the collective's WhatsApp group is named Vineyard Dreams.
City Wine Gardens Across the World
To date, Bayliss-Smith's plot is the only one registered in the Urban Vineyards Association's upcoming global directory, which features more famous urban wineries such as the eighteen hundred vines on the slopes of Paris's historic artistic district area and more than three thousand grapevines with views of and inside the Italian city. The Italian-based non-profit association is at the vanguard of a initiative reviving city vineyards in traditional winemaking countries, but has identified them all over the globe, including cities in East Asia, Bangladesh and Central Asia.
"Vineyards help cities stay greener and ecologically varied. These spaces preserve open space from construction by creating long-term, yielding farming plots inside urban environments," says the organization's leader.
Like all wines, those produced in urban areas are a result of the soils the vines grow in, the unpredictability of the climate and the individuals who care for the fruit. "Each vintage represents the charm, local spirit, environment and history of a urban center," notes the president.
Mystery Eastern European Variety
Returning to the city, the grower is in a race against time to gather the vines he grew from a plant abandoned in his garden by a Polish family. Should the rain arrives, then the birds may seize their chance to attack once more. "Here we have the mystery Polish grape," he comments, as he cleans damaged and rotten grapes from the shimmering bunches. "The variety remains uncertain what variety they are, but they're definitely disease-resistant. In contrast to premium grapes β Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and additional renowned European varieties β you need not spray them with pesticides ... this is possibly a unique cultivar that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."
Group Activities Throughout Bristol
Additional participants of the group are also making the most of sunny interludes between bursts of fall precipitation. On the terrace with views of the city's shimmering waterfront, where medieval merchant vessels once bobbed with casks of wine from France and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is collecting her rondo grapes from approximately fifty vines. "I adore the aroma of the grapevines. It is so evocative," she remarks, pausing with a container of fruit resting on her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of southern France when you open the vehicle windows on holiday."
Grant, 52, who has devoted more than 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, inadvertently inherited the vineyard when she returned to the UK from Kenya with her family in 2018. She felt an overwhelming duty to maintain the vines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This plot has already survived multiple proprietors," she explains. "I really like the concept of environmental care β of handing this down to someone else so they keep cultivating from this land."
Terraced Vineyards and Natural Winemaking
A short walk away, the remaining cultivators of the group are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of the local river valley. One filmmaker has established more than one hundred fifty vines situated on ledges in her expansive property, which tumbles down towards the silty local waterway. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, indicating the interwoven vineyard. "They can't believe they are viewing rows of vines in a city street."
Today, Scofield, 60, is harvesting bunches of dusty purple Rondo grapes from rows of plants slung across the cliff-side with the help of her child, Luca. The conservationist, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to streaming service's nature programming and BBC Two's gardening shows, was motivated to plant grapes after seeing her neighbour's grapevines. She has learned that hobbyists can produce intriguing, pleasurable natural wine, which can command prices of upwards of seven pounds a glass in the growing number of establishments specialising in low-processing wines. "It's just incredibly satisfying that you can actually create quality, natural wine," she states. "It is quite fashionable, but really it's reviving an old way of making vintage."
"When I tread the fruit, all the wild yeasts come off the skins into the liquid," explains the winemaker, ankle deep in a bucket of small branches, pips and red liquid. "That's how wines were made traditionally, but industrial wineries add preservatives to eliminate the natural cultures and subsequently incorporate a commercially produced culture."
Difficult Conditions and Creative Solutions
A few doors down sprightly retiree Bob Reeve, who inspired Scofield to establish her vines, has gathered his friends to pick Chardonnay grapes from the 100 vines he has laid out neatly across multiple levels. Reeve, a northern English physical education instructor who worked at the local university cultivated an interest in wine on annual sporting trips to France. But it is a challenge to grow this particular variety in the dampness of the valley, with cooling tides moving through from the Bristol Channel. "I aimed to make Burgundian wines in this location, which is somewhat ambitious," admits Reeve with a smile. "This variety is slow-maturing and particularly vulnerable to fungal infections."
"I wanted to make Burgundian wines here, which is a bit bonkers"
The temperamental local weather is not the sole challenge faced by grape cultivators. Reeve has been compelled to erect a fence on